The Other Critics

Bauer Finds Much to Like, a Few Things to Complain About, at Plate Shop

Photo: Brian Smeets/Grub Street

We have another case of a review from Michael Bauer where, after reading the text, we found the star rating a bit of a surprise — in this case in the negative direction. What sounds like at least a two-and-a-half-er for Kim Alter’s Plate Shop in Sausalito turns out to be a mere two-star review, and the knocks against the place have to do with sometimes slow service, a few dish elements he didn’t love, awkward table layout, and a half-empty dining room — which Bauer attributes to it not catching on with locals, which would, Catch 22-like, be more likely to happen with a positive Bauer review. He calls the menu a “real eye-opener” with “intricately crafted combinations that belie the casual surroundings.” Earlier he even called out the smoked risotto as a favorite dish, but now he sounds less in love, saying “a little goes a long way.”

He calls Alter’s dishes “ambitious” in general, giving special attention to the “pig roast” and “whole chicken” dishes, as well as an equally complex plate of duck that draws comparisons to Gary Danko and Michael Mina. He also loves the green garlic soup, and calls the desserts “high concept.” He adds that the food improved on each successive visit, and that the restaurant “should be a hot ticket.” So we are once again left with the star conundrum. Why should restaurants with much less ambitious fare like Mamacita, Pizzaiolo, and Zero Zero garner so much more respect? We suppose he’d like it more if there were pizza? [Chron, Kauffman’s earlier take]

Bauer Finds Much to Like, a Few Things to Complain About, at Plate Shop