Paul Liebrandt’s personal take on modern cooking is, like most approaches to the discipline, pretty divisive — remember eels with crystallized violets and chocolate? Foamed-up calf brains and foie gras? Onion sorbet? Liebrandt’s simply misunderstood, argues Sally Rowe’s snappy debut doc A Matter of Taste. (It was still called A Mouthful when we first told you about it.) The film traces Liebrandt’s struggle from post-9/11 New York’s comfort-food culture through the opening of the Michelin-starred Corton, and in it, we witness Liebrandt’s transformation from scrappy, eager golden boy to rounder, sadder-looking, jaded thirtysomething cynic — and it sort of makes our hearts sink. Watch a preview clip below, then catch the film at the Tribeca Film Fest starting on April 28, or watch its debut on HBO June 13.