The Other Critics

Vettel Gives Bistronomic Three Stars; Bruno Hates on Fish Bar

Bistronomic gets a rave review.
Bistronomic gets a rave review. Photo: Huge Galdones/Galdones Photography

• Phil Vettel hands Bistronomic three stars out of four, writing that “fans who have happily paid the freight to eat [chef] Noguier’s food in ritzier digs will be positively giddy with the offerings here.” He believes that the $8 fish soup “would command $15 elsewhere with nary a murmur of protest.” The pastas are perfectly portioned and affordable, and entrees are all good. That said, the “signature entree” is the whole oragnic chicken, which he believes might be the “best chicken in town.” [Trib]

• Pat Bruno’s own memories ruined the Fish Bar for him. “Comparing the clams Fish Bar is serving to those served at most fried clam places on the East Coast…would be like comparing a BMW to a Ford Focus.” He was also confused as to why the lobster roll had celery in it, and thought the codfish sandwich was “so heavily fried it wouldn’t sink if it were able to fit into the paper cup of tartar sauce served with it.” Still, the clam chowder was “actually quite good.” [Sun Times]

• Bruno also took the time to visit DiSotto Enoteca, which he describes as “a blast in a basement.” The burrata dish was “totally amazing,” while the bruschette with rapini and pancetta was so good he “wanted to place a second order.” [Sun Times]

Vettel Gives Bistronomic Three Stars; Bruno Hates on Fish Bar