The Reality of Our Situation

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Even though McSweeney’s is getting into the cookbook game (or perhaps because of it), they’re not above examining the hard truths of food writing, as evidenced in the latest installment of their web column, “Dream Jobs That You’re Glad You Didn’t Pursue.” It’s appropriately titled “So You Wanted to Be a Food Critic.” Good pick! After all, it’s a job that we know is fraught with peril and disillusionment. Choice line: “Instead of trying to make your name reviewing only the most delectable foods with flowery and effervescent prose, you would scorch the earth … You attacked chef specials with a ferocity that would make Gordon Ramsay blush,” a tactic that sounds vaguely familiar. [McSweeney’s]