Sifton Gives Two Stars to M. Wells

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Photo: Patrick Siggins

Long Island City has itself a two-star diner— Sam Sifton says the meatloaf at M. Wells “blew everyone’s minds” (it’s “a ridiculous dish, a perfect meal”), the beef tartare is “silky and spectacularly seasoned,” the escargots and marrow is “an amazing combination,” and even the banana cream pie made by a “woman in street shoes” is excellent. [NYT]