The Other Critics

Kramer Likes iNG Without the ‘Bells and Whistles’; Shouse Visits D’Noche

Wagyu on a Firebrick
Wagyu on a Firebrick Photo: Nick Kindelsperger

• Julia Kramer gives iNG three stars out of five, writing that most of the food is “the kind of exciting, genuine food that needs no additional bells and whistles.” Unfortunately for her, a lot of “purposeless tricks distracted from otherwise solid dishes.” A “standout bowl of la mian with a soy sauce” was served “lukewarm,” and a “chilled salmon” quickly became “room temperature.” She ultimately believes that “the fewer distractions there are to iNG’s food, the better.” [TOC]

• Heather Shouse also hands three stars to D’Noche in Logan Square. Owner Esam Hani has been “banging out solid Cuban sandwiches” at Café Con Leche, but this addition is “sexy enough to get dressed up for,” even if it “favors flavor over fuss.” She recommends the pork chop and the skirt steak, which is “nicely charred and properly pink, slathered in a sauce of roasted arbol chiles and pumpkin seed.” [TOC]

Kramer Likes iNG Without the ‘Bells and Whistles’; Shouse Visits