We had to separate out Mr. Sens from those other critics today just to point out that he dares in the new issue of San Francisco Magazine to buck the trend of raves for Cotogna and gives it a mere, modest, two and a half stars. Unlike Bauer, who gushed and bestowed on the place, strangely, the same three-and-a-half-star rating as its much fancier older sister Quince, Sens finds the cooking “homespun but of high breeding,” and wittily notes when a companion calls a pizza and other dishes, “Good but not transcendent,” “Is it fair to expect rapture from a wood-fired pie?” Touché. He says the reviews and the celeb sightings have built the place up “to improbable dimensions,” and advises people not to expect much from the desserts, and simply to expect a “smart, seasonal menu stocked with mostly delicious dishes.” [SF Mag]
