This week in the magazine, Adam Platt checks out Fedora and finds Gabriel Stulman’s third restaurant a “raffish, casually inventive, modestly priced neighborhood” place. “Amid the bearded, flannel-shirted, bourbon-swilling hordes,” our critic finds many good things to eat on the “deceptively inventive bistro menu.” Dishes like “fat, golden cod fritters,” a “torpedo-size ‘warm beef sandwich’,” and killer madeleines earn the restaurant two stars.
Meanwhile, Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite have the story on Parm, the upcoming next-door offshoot of Torrisi Italian Specialties. When that opens, expect 35 seats, an expanded lunch menu, and gourmet riffs on classic red-sauce fare. And oyster lovers should consider attending the New Amsterdam Market’s April 9 “Oyster Saloon,” a fund-raising affair that will serve oysters every which way to those who buy a $50 ticket.