Adam Platt on David Burke Kitchen; Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld on the Dutch
In this week's New York, Adam Platt turns his palate to David Burke Kitchen, the showy chef's nod to "the most fashionable and formulaic trend of our time, farm-to-table dining." Here, despite the "softly lit, dun-colored room are adorned with the usual giant color photographs of apple-cheeked 'suppliers' cuddling the usual lobsters, piglets, and baby sheep," ... "the incurably baroque Burke can’t resist being himself." That means silly garnishes (beef jerky on a cocktail, anyone?) and overwrought preparations ("an interesting-sounding creation called 'Ants on a Log' turned out to be slabs of gelatinous bone marrow randomly dressed with escargot"). Still, our critic enjoys a number of dishes, including the pretzel crab cake and "well-marbled $45 Buckhead rib eye." And Platt points out: "David Burke’s fans don’t go to his restaurants to dine on spring ramps or quibble over the freshness of a piece of fish. They go to be diverted and entertained"; mission accomplished, at least. Check out the full one-star review.
Meanwhile, Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld have the scoop on the latest doings of another well-known chef and restaurateur: Andrew Carmellini, whose much-anticipated the Dutch opens this week. "We wanted to do American because it gives us the freedom to cook whatever we want," he tells the Robs, which means "everything from the fried chicken and biscuits Carmellini previewed at Locanda Verde to ‘barrio tripe’ with beer and avocado, jerk-seasoned spicy goat pie."
Rob and Robin also weigh in on flowering "kale rabe" — not a real vegetable, as it turns out, but popular at the Greenmarket nonetheless, since "kale aficionados consider the florets a rare treat." And if Lucali owner Mark Iacono's run-in with the mob last week left you shocked, don't be — pizzaiolos and mobsters in New York go way back.