A couple of years ago, Jay Rayner penned a memorable profile of Mario Batali — the two ate at Del Posto together (Rayner thought it boasted two stars “more for the glossy, dark wood, country-club-meets-ocean-liner surroundings than for the workmanlike food”) and Batali the “maniacal, appetite-driven chef” kept Rayner up past his bedtime saying things like, “You haven't asked me if I fucked Gwyneth” and explaining why he banned Gordon Ramsay from his restaurants. Looks like the piece (or something about Rayner) didn’t sit well with Batali, because earlier this week, when The Guardian critic got into it with David Chang (Rayner’s final word to Chang: “been on twitter for yonks and this is the 1st time a chef has used it for a big old whinge. And it had to be you didn't it david”), Batali jumped in and tweeted: “@davidchang Hey chang Jay Rayner is more into jay than anything else gimme more Gill!! Or at least an honest fella!!” (A.A. Gill is the outspoken critic at the Daily Mail). Rayner’s response: “I have been called self-absorbed by @mariobatali As that's come from a master of the vice I shall have to take it as a compliment.” They say fame is a shuttlecock, and in the case of Rayner and Ramsay versus Batali and Chang, it looks like a game of doubles.