March 1 is upon us, which means it’s time for a scene and menu change over at What Happens When. We stopped by John Fraser’s pop-up this morning and found interior designer Elle Kunnos de Voss within, who told us the new mood is a dense forest, à la Where the Wild Things Are. De Voss spent hours installing emerald-green sticks meant to represent swaths of oversize pine needles and let us snap this photo of the space in progress. Those dining tonight and going forward will find a new menu on offer, with theme-appropriate dishes like forest mushrooms with salsify, hazelnuts, and barley, or, somewhat more fantastically, frogs’ legs with potato, leeks, and mint. It’s still a $58 prix fixe, and you can peruse the full menu below. De Voss also mentioned that the original composer is no longer with the project (which explains why, when we dined last week, it seemed like there was just normal music playing), but that the team lined up someone new to do a soundtrack for this month.
Picture yourself in a thicket of pine needles. Photo: Jenny Miller