The Korean Deli Dilemma

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Photo: Christopher Lane

In this weeks issue of New York is an excerpt from Paris Review editor Ben Ryder Howes memoir about starting a Korean convenience store. Will he succumb to his wifes desire for steam tables? She wants to serve food that is either sticky and sweet, or too salty, or somehow all of the above, and that roasts in the dusty air of New York City all day, while roiling crowds examine it at close distance pushing it around, sampling it, breathing on it. [NYM]