The Other Critics

Shouse Raves about Maude’s; Sula Wants more Belgian at Leopold

Maude's Liquor Bar has been packed since it first opened.
Maude’s Liquor Bar has been packed since it first opened. Photo: Huge Galdones/Galdones Photography

• Heather Shouse gives a rare rave review to Maude’s Liquor Bar, granting the West Loop spot four stars. She writes that chef “Jeff Pikus is putting out a menu as indulgent and classic as his past work at Trio and Alinea was groundbreaking.” The “foie gras torchon and sausage-studded cassoulet” are all “nailed with finesse.” Even the salad Lyonnaise is “pitch-perfect.” [TOC]

• Mike Sula visited the Belgian-inspired Leopold, and wished it would it was a little more “fully committed to the country it’s inspired by.” The stoemp, “the Belgian answer to bubble and squeak,” “trumped” the “fatty braised short rib.” Luckily, the fries were “near perfect, durably crispy and salty,” and the waffle with sour cherry preserves is “an obvious but winning way to end a meal here.” [Chicago Reader]

• David Zemans visited BIG & little’s to try their burgers and foie gras fries. The burger was helped by the addition of Merkt’s cheddar, which is one of the “among best 50 cents you’ll ever spend.” The rare burger came out “barely warm on the inside,” and “had a serious crust on the outside,” which was “fully loaded with beef flavor.” But it’s the foie gras which made “duck fat seem like child’s play.” They “have undoubtedly secured a spot on my list of ten best things I ate in 2011.” [Serious Eats]

Shouse Raves about Maude’s; Sula Wants more Belgian at Leopold