In the magazine this week, Adam Platt turns his focus to Michael White’s latest, Ai Fiori. Our critic enjoys many dishes among the menu’s “food of the Riviera” offerings, but laments the “awkward, slightly tortured space.” Standouts include lobster “in a delicious velouté with truffles and chestnut” and “thick, chewy trofie nere (squid-ink pasta tossed with shellfish).” However, dishes like the “tragically overcooked” veal chop, plus “grim hotel surroundings,” make this a solid two-star review.
Meanwhile, Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite have the scoop on the opening of Stellina, the gelato parlor and casual café from Sorella chef-owner Emma Hearst. When that debuts “in about a week,” it’ll serve “soup, salads, and sandwiches like mortadella-prosciutto-and-prosciutto-cotto with Vermont butter and cornichons,” plus housemade gelati you’ll eventually be able to get delivered. The Robs also put the spotlight on clementines in a dessert from Txikito’s Alex Raij that creeps into savory territory with caramel, sea salt, and olive oil.