Even though Jeremy Spector is happily ensconced at his East Village restaurant, the Brindle Room, he hasnt forsaken his hobby of creating fast-food concepts. First there was haute hot-doggery Dogmatic Dogs; now, theres Wonder City Coffee & Donuts, a breakfast prototype hes debuting on Monday in his dining room beginning daily at 8 a.m. (11 a.m. on weekends). Inspired in part by the proliferation of Dunkin Donuts shops in the hood (five within a six-block radius!), Spector and partner Tiffany Dorman tossed out their espresso machine, built a pour-over coffee bar, and schooled themselves in the art and science of single-cup filter-drip brewing.
The Plowshares and Gimme! coffee is bright, fresh, and nicely balanced, but its the old-fashioned sinkers that really stand out. Theyre slightly crisp on the outside and light and airy within. In homage to the old Spudnuts chain, Spector achieves this exquisitely springy texture by adding mashed potatoes to the dough, and offers three toppings: caramel, chocolate-hazelnut, and powdered sugar. Taking a page out of Totonnos playbook, he plans to serve them hot each morning until the dough runs out.