Platt on Ciano, Millesime; the Robs on the City’s Latest Restaurant Openings
In this week's New York, Adam Platt visits Italian newcomer Ciano, where he finds chef Shea Gallante's cooking "opulent, accomplished, and, yes, expensive." Our critic mostly applauds Gallante's "rustic-style, farm-to-table Italian" fare, especially the veal meatballs and oxtail ravioli, but the "extravagant pricing" drops the restaurant to a two-spot. Meanwhile, over at Millesime inside the Carlton Hotel, Platt enjoys some dishes, including pike quenelles and "velvety" clam chowder, but a space "like the mezzanine dining room of a randomly upscale suburban hotel" detracts from the dining experience; the restaurant earns one star.
Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld turn their palates to the persimmon this week, and confess they're always mixing up the varieties (it's not just you). In this recipe for grilled-persimmon bruschetta from Eataly's Le Verdure, it doesn't matter what kind of fruit is used. The Robs also bring news of some restaurant openings, including Mable's Smokehouse, a barbecue joint in Williamsburg; Jody Williams of Gottino's new French place, Buvette; and Wonder City Coffee & Donuts, a pop-up inside the Brindle Room. And the duo checks in with Nate Smith, a Spotted Pig veteran who just opened Dean Street in Prospect Heights, asking him about Manhattan versus Brooklyn, gastropubs, and of course, gnudi.