Last week Jonathan Gold assessed the various advantages that anonymity provides to an honest restaurant review, offering that from the worst seat in the house and dining on the aging fish passed off as a special, one could assess the ins and outs of the establishment’s workings with inarguable veracity. No longer anonymous but unquestionably still our most honored local expert, the critic gets an earful this week from an L.A. Weekly reader.
Waiting a short eternity for the food to hit the table at Salt’s Cure, one Beamdog explains: “It wasn’t until we got up to leave that I finally realized why it was taking so long for the kitchen to fill orders in a partially full restaurant…There right in front of us was a less-than-anonymous food critic having a great chat with one of the chefs behind the bar…Mr. Gold had been there when we arrived and I suspect he was there long after we were gone…My recommendation to your readers is: If you arrive at a restaurant and spot one of L.A.’s food critics, turn on your heels and head back out the door or expect the service you get to suffer as the staff focus their attention elsewhere.”
Ouch! But if he thought it was hard to get served there before, no doubt it has be double-trouble today, seeing as Gold dropped a positive review on Salt’s Cure just yesterday. For haven’t we all been similarly inconvenienced by that strange phenomenon of finding our targeted lunchtime destination absolutely mobbed after just a few glowing words by Mr. Gold? Only in L.A.!
RED MEDICINE’S MEDICINE [L.A. Weekly]