In the magazine this week, Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite visit Hung Ry, a Noho restaurant that serves organic, gourmet hand-pulled Chinese noodles. “If you take the noodles out of Chinatown, do you take Chinatown out of the noodles?” the Underground Gourmet wonders, and happily, here, the answer is no. “Hung Ry is serving righteous Lanzhou-style hand-pulled noodles that are as good as any within slinging distance of Confucius Plaza — maybe even better,” the Robs write.
Meanwhile, Adam Platt has been busy chewing his way through the city’s multitude of porky offerings, from the Breslin’s blowout suckling-pig feast to Char No. 4’s fried-pork nuggets, and he’s rounded up the 35 best specimens from across the boroughs. In a similar piggy vein, the magazine offers a guide to telling your Heritage breeds apart, a nose-to-tail tour from chef April Bloomfield, and one writer’s account of knowing, and eventually eating, a pig named Splotch. And speaking of portly subjects, cookbooks sure have gotten fat; plus, get a first look at Graffit, from the Spanish chef-artist Jesus Nuñez, and find a recipe for those ubiquitous holiday rainbow cookies, from Torrisi Italian Specialties.