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Fonda Nolita’s Tacos About to Get More ‘Real’

Fonda Nolita's Tacombi.

Fonda Nolita's Tacombi.Photo: Danny Kim/New York Magazine

Last night we dropped into Fonda Nolita to find some new offerings cooking behind the dashboard of the space's taco-dispensing VW bus, Tacombi. Owner Dario Wolos told us that now that he's warmed New Yorkers up with gringo-friendly options (mole-poblano chicken, barbacoa-style brisket), he wants to take it in the more "real" direction of the offal and the other less-common (around here, anyway) meats typical to authentic taquerias.

Yesterday we found tortillas stuffed with vinegar-soused sweetbreads, griddled tongue, suckling pig garnished with pickled onions, and barbacoa-style goat — some of the new options created by chef (and Food Network star) Aarón Sanchez. And coming up as soon as the spot secures its beer-and-wine license (hopefully by February, Wolos said): four different styles of Mexican beer, all custom-made by Kelso Brewery in Clinton Hill. Wolos is also constructing a takeaway coffee and paleta window in front, so look for that early in the new year.

Related: Magic Bus [NYM]

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