The Other Critics

Center City Grille’s Mushroom Soup Smells Like a SEPTA Concourse; JG Domestic’s Striped Bass Is ‘Laughable’

• Brian Freedman checks out Center City Grille where the mushroom soup carries an odor like “certain dank corners of the SEPTA concourse on a hot summer day,” and the “Day-Glo cheese and occasional crisp of bacon” in the potato skins are “easily overwhelmed by the heap of sour cream, like a lactic Kilimanjaro high above the potato foothills.” [PW]


• At JG Domestic Adam Erace digs into a “killer chicken dish” that’s “the bar menu’s bombshell,” but finds the striped bass is “a laughable $25 fillet the size of a business card.” [Citypaper]

• The Washington Post’s Jason Wilson ventures to Philly for Adsum’s Four Loko dinner and reports back that chef Matt Levin “should win a special James Beard award simply for attempting that dinner,” and that Fruit Punch flavored Four Loko “smells like Tinkerbell peed in my glass.” [Washington Post]

Friday Saturday Sunday’s slow roasted duck is “outstanding,” while the pate maison is “smooth and rich.” [South Philly Review]

Center City Grille’s Mushroom Soup Smells Like a SEPTA Concourse; JG