Michael Bauer is mostly kind about the remodeled Trader Vic’s, the sort of Disney-fied version of its Tiki forbears that recently underwent a remodel at their last remaining Bay Area location in Emeryville. He says the “Cosmo [pupu] platter is timeless, although on this occasion it felt as if the kitchen hadn’t cranked up the fryer enough,” and he notes that while Kung Pao chicken was “moist,” the oven adds a smokiness to everything and “if I closed my eyes I’m not sure I could tell the chicken from the pork except for the texture.” He gets nostalgic about the creamed spinach topped with melted cheese in an artichoke bottom, saying it’s as good as he remembers. And he lists off a couple other “old favorites” still on the menu like the lamb curry, but says little about them. He does, however, say the cocktails were swell. All told: two stars. [Chron]
And meanwhile Carey Sweet files the first review of Bistro Sabor up in Napa (noting that little bitty Napa racked up thirteen new restaurant openings this year), saying that “Nothing is dumbed down for timid gringo palates” at Ariel Ceja’s new Latin-inflected restaurant. She says that chef Jeff Murphy is making “thoughtful, consistently delicious spins on Latin American street food” like a steak taco, with meat marinated in coffee, soy, and chili powder; and a quesadilla with Oaxacan cheese, spicy peppers, and Dungeness crab. She loves the banana churros with bittersweet chocolate and dulce de leche dipping sauces. The verdict: two and a half stars, with a whopping three for food. [Chron]
