Sifton, Greene Think Lincoln Has Time to Improve; Sutton Finds Osteria Morini Too Fatty

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In spite of chef Jonathan Bennos success in the kitchen, Sam Sifton writes, Lincoln is a restaurant that lacks a center a restaurant in which it is possible to eat well without really having a good time. [NYT]
Related: Platt Finds Lincoln Lacking; Totes for All

Gael Greene thinks its too early for a final judgment on so ambitious a dream as Lincoln. Perhaps Bennos cerebral modern vision of Italian food will find its audience, she says. To me, right now it seems too sedate. She finds satisfaction at Mia Dona, where the meatballs are "soft and sensuous." [Insatiable Critic]

Osteria Morini is "a restaurant dedicated to fat," writes Ryan Sutton. "Firm garganelli, soft gnocchi and porky tortellini drown in an overdose of cream." [Bloomberg]
Related: Platt Digs In At Osteria Morini; All About Edible Deliveries

Brooklyn Fare is "heavily theatrical," according to Silvia Killingsworth. The nine-course, seafood-heavy menu, "with Japanese, Italian, and French, influences," changes weekly and is "wickedly good." [NYer]