In this week’s New York, Adam Platt heads to Lincoln Ristorante, chef Jonathan Benno’s much-touted $20 million Italian restaurant. There, he finds a “dazzling postmodern dining palace,” but with expectations raised, is disappointed by the inconsistencies in service and food. In the end, he says, “Lincoln may become a culinary destination one day. But right now, it feels more like … a place for the midtown cultural hordes to stop and gawk (and complain about the prices) before moving on to a night at the opera or ballet.”
Elsewhere, Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld round up the best grocery sacks to give as gifts — stuffed, of course, with goods from the city’s best larders. Butternut squash is in season, and so is this killer roasted-squash recipe. And Amos Barshad looks at how Four Loko stacks up against other “starter booze,” like Zima and Mike’s Hard Lemonade.