What to Eat at Village Lobster and Crabhouse, Now Serving Lobster Rolls and Oyster Loafs


The Maryland seafood shack has seen upscale interpretations in the form of Butcher Bay and Choptank, but last week a slightly more pedestrian version quietly (indeed silently!) soft-opened in the space that housed Steak Frites and then Lucy Browne’s. Village Lobster and Crabhouse’s “SPORTS BAR” signage has been up for some weeks; with the doors now open, we can reveal that the man behind it is Andrew Silverman, who also operates City Crab and Duke’s. The décor here isn’t quite as over-the-top as at Duke’s (there are a few flat-screen TVs, some boat oars in a bucket, the obligatory buoys, and wood paneling reminiscent of lobster traps), but the service is just as down-home and chirpy. Expect to be called “brother” and “my man” multiple times during the course of your meal here.

The half-dozen beers on tap ($4 during happy hour, till 7 p.m.) are nothing special (Hoegaarden, Blue Moon, Bud, Bud Light, Sierra Nevada, Guinness). In addition to the preview-menu items you see below, there’s an “Our Butcher’s Blend Burger Village Hamburger” with caramelized onions, a crab-and-shrimp Cobb salad, the obligatory grouper sandwich, and an oyster loaf (essentially a po boy), as well as oyster sliders and a lobster roll.

Village Lobster and Crabhouse, 225 Varick St., nr. Downing St.; 646-861-2985