While Mario Batali continues to celebrate Del Postos Times review in interviews and name-droppy blog posts, Ryan Sutton of Bloomberg is the first critic to take the place down a notch, in a review that pretty much flies in the face of Siftons. Not only does he say the $500,000 in renovations werent apparent to him, but he seems to prefer the earlier, better Del Posto! Trying the $125 to $500 Collezione menu, he says you can find superior versions of certain dishes at Marea, Osteria Morini, Inoteca, and even Batalis own still-brilliant Babbo, while others make you wonder whether you could do better at home. (Who knows, with the new Batali app, maybe you can!) He even compares the ghastly 100-layer lasagna to Hamburger Helper. Okay, but what about the service that Sifton thought was warm and practiced? Sutton complains that its sometimes oppressive and it starts to fall apart in the later hours. Acknowledging that Del Posto has one of the citys best mixology programs, he says its better simply to come early and have a drink at the bar. The final verdict: two stars, meaning good, reliable. Okay, so which review is good and reliable? Yeesh.
Oh, and for another takedown of a celebrated Italian chef, check out Toronto Lifes review of Scarpetta today: The food is as authentically rustic as your average Muskoka McMansion.