First Look at Hung Ry, Not Your Nai Nai’s Hand-Pulled Noodle Joint

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In advance of opening their Asian-inspired noodle restaurant, partner Amadeus Bogner (a veteran of Obeca Li) and chef Michael Hodgkins took a tour of Chinatown’s hand-pulled-noodle joints, put an ad in the local paper, and hired three masters of the dough-thwacking art. The big difference between Noho’s 50-seat Hung Ry and, say, Super Taste or Sheng Wang — other than the prices, of course — is that the flour is organic, and the noodles themselves are mingled with unconventional, mostly locally sourced ingredients like one $14 bowl’s Silkie chicken (a fluffy-plumed, black-skinned breed), liver ballotine, corn cake, and mâche. Hodgkins has also crafted appetizers like beef tongue with black chickpeas, carrots, and pickled garlic broth, and plans to make his own condiments, like salted chiles and fermented beans. The space is salvage-chic, with church-pew banquettes and college-library chairs, and an open kitchen affords a view of the acrobatic noodle action, which should officially commence on October 14

Bites

Quail egg, chili, seeds. 3

Daozi. 3

Stuffed pancake. 4

Beef momo. 3.5

 
Starters

Young greens, apple, ginkgo. 5.5

Seasonal vegetable plate. 6.5

Beef tongue, black chickpeas, carrots, pickled garlic broth. 7.5

Monkfish liver, pak shoi, longan, hen of the woods. 9

Lobster, black bean shoots, cucumber, radish, salted chilies. 9

Roasted marrow bone, fresh grated wasabi, celery root. 8

Veal head, broccoli, peanuts. 7


Noodles

Brisket, tripe, smoked egg. Purple potato, onion, black mustard. 13

Chicken, liver ballotine. Corn cake, mache. 14

Mutton sausage, its sweetbreads. Salt preserved black cabbage. 14

Peking duck breast, leg, gizzard. Szechuan pepper, sweet peppers. 15

Lobster, scallop. Sunchoke, matsutake, truffle. 19

Pork belly, tail, tongue. Apple, turnip, crispy leaf. 13

Cold buckwheat noodle. Tomato, bush beans, sesame. 11

Rye noodle. Tamarind, squash, peppers, radish. 11


Desserts

Apple soufflé, honey, walnuts. 8.5

Sorbets: pear, raspberry, blueberry. All with candied fruit. 2.5 ea.

Hung Ry, 55 Bond St., nr. Bowery; 212-677-4864

First Look at Hung Ry, Not Your Nai Nai’s Hand-Pulled Noodle Joint