Adam Platt Gets Clubby at Peels and Lambs Club; Il Laboratorio Is Two Weeks Away

Photo: Danny Kim

In this week’s issue of New York, Adam Platt files a twofer review: He finds Peels lacking in that “clubby, clannish sense of occasion that makes Freemans such a unique place to eat.” At the Lambs Club, he gets “an old-fashioned gourmet meal” from Geoffrey Zakarian. The desserts, however, are somewhat prosaic. In the realm of non-prosaic desserts, Il Laboratorio del Gelato is a couple of weeks from opening its Ludlow Street store, and gelato man Jon Snyder tells us what to expect. Finally, hen-of-the-woods mushrooms are the thing to seek out at the Greenmarket this week; the Hurricane Club’s Craig Koketsu uses them in a dramatic side dish.