Phil Vettel is constantly surprised by Gilt Bar in River North: “The cooking is more sophisticated, the flavors more nuanced, than the all-lower-case menu descriptions might lead one to believe.” Though he’s concerned that four other restaurants have failed in that same address, he has“reasons to believe that Gilt might outlast its predecessors.” [Trib]
For Julia Kramer, a great sushi restaurant all comes to whether the fish is fresh. Luckily, “the answer, at Arami—an understated, unpretentious West Town treasure—is an immediate yes.” She gives it four stars out of five, and finds even the non-sushi items, like “togarashi-seared tuna” to be stunning. [TOC]
About the only thing that David Tamarkin dislikes about Cafe 676, a sidewalk-only café off the Mag Mile, is the one thing that makes it so pleasant: “To eat here is to become upset that the place will be closed once winter arrives.” The “simple, locally sourced food” is satisfying, but it’s the desserts, which “exhibit some serious thought.” [TOC]
Though initially confused by what all the “fuss was about,” Pat Bruno is awed by Lillie’s Q. The pulled pork sandwich is the best “you will ever sink your teeth into,” and the boiled peanuts are a “South-in-your-mouth kind of specialty.” [Sun-Times]
