As Tacos Leo’s Star Rises, Officials Push Their Food Indoors

Photo: Tatiana Arbogast

One of our new-found street food favorites, we gave a shout to Tacos Leo back in August, certain that any attempts to keep an al pastor the shape and size of a beehive to ourselves would prove nothing but futile. The pastor specialists are becoming something of an internet sensation, with Eat, Drink, and Merry comparing its taquero, Norbeto Martinez, to a cellist with his bow and Street Gourmet L.A. deeming Leo the real deal as far as true al pastor goes. In an update to Squid Ink’s in-depth look at Leo, the health department has apparently made the truck get rid of its outdoor food table and pushed the pastor inside. Our stand-out trucks and sidewalk grills are often distinguished by folding outdoor tables weighed down with a selection of salsas and toppings, proving what most street-eaters already know: Legislation and great street food really don’t mix. Something to keep in mind as officials push for letter grades on our mobile eats and start sticking their noses in our tacos.

Tacos Leo: Authentic Al Pastor Comes to Venice and La Brea [Squid Ink]