Sifton Marvels at Il Matto; Greene, Jones Exult in Vandaag


Il Matto is a spare and radical gallery of a dining room ... odd and filled with unfamiliar marvels, says Sam Sifton, who notes also that the service is exceptional and the food beautifully executed. [NYT]
Related: First Look at Il Matto, Bringing Pecorino Crème Brûlée to Tribeca

Má Pêche is basically a temple to meat, notes Leo Carey. As an extension of the Chang empire, there isnt a dud on the menu, but theres no real triumph, either no signature dish to seal the places identity. [NYer]
Related: Má Pêche Now Takes Reservations

Long Island City Roman restaurant Testaccio is narrow, dark, deep, says Robert Sietsema. The pastas and other authentic dishes are good, but the wood-fired pizzas are better: Indeed, things that fly from the wood-burning oven are so good, you wish the restaurant would make better use of it. [VV]

Gael Greene finds fusion comfort in Vandaags hybrid of Dutch and Modern-American cuisines; icy service and microscopic portions at Recette leave her so caught up in toxic emotion that it takes until the next day for the excellent food to sink in. [Insatiable Critic]
Related: First Look at Recette, a Private Dining Room Going Public Tomorrow

Its hard to compare Vandaag to another restaurant in New York right now, says Carey Jones. Service is still rocky, but with very few exceptions, the caliber of the food is enough to excuse any bumps along the way. [Serious Eats NY]