In the magazine this week, Adam Platt heads to Tribeca for a twofer. At Terroir Tribeca, he finds a successful expansion of Marco Canora’s tendency toward a “more populist small-plates repertoire … one designed to facilitate the consumption of beer, profitable cocktails, and, of course, wine.” Il Matto fares less well, earning no stars for its “gauntlet of self-conscious, inconsistent grub.” Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld check out Nolita’s first stay-put food truck, Fonda Nolita, where a VW Combi slings tacos in an expansive, laid-back space.
The Robs also round up a slew of new openings, including the gluttonous promises of a hard-core Texas roll-up at Hill Country Chicken, duck-fat fries at Maritime Parc, and Oreo zeppoles at Lavo. Bell peppers are in season — Salumeria Rosi chef Cesare Casella suggests using them as colorful confetti in a farrotto — and New York State grapes have also landed at the market.
