Pichet Ong and Wylie Dufresne Disagree About the Changing Restaurant Power Dynamic

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Pichet Ong. Photo: Melissa Hom

New York threw a party at the New Museum last night to celebrate the people featured in this weeks issue, Establishments on the city's new group of influentials. No competition took place to see who was more powerful, unless you count Spot chef Pichet Ong trying to one-up Wylie Dufresne by giving a longer answer to the question of how power dynamics in the restaurant industry have changed in the past few years. (Ong thinks it's "more sensational, more glamorized," and Dufresne who won by two minutes, but only because hes kind of repetitive thinks it hasn't changed much.) Post-loss, Ong jokingly tried to convince us to give him another shot at the voice recorder. All in all, a pretty innocent display of power, but does he ever try to use his influence for evil? Ive used it for personal gain. I wouldnt say necessarily evil, he told us. When were pushing ourselves to do better, we step on a few things. Its like its impossible, when youre in the city, to not step on bugs. Its not a bad thing unless you mean harm.