Hill Country Chicken Brings the Texas Hand Roll to New York

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Inside Hill Country Chicken; the deep-fried centerpiece. Photo: Roxanne Behr/New York Magazine

Hill Countrys Marc Glosserman has already paid tribute to the cuisine and culture of his familys native barbecue-crazed Lockhart, Texas. Now, with Hill Country Chicken, opening next week, he plans to celebrate the home-style cooking of his grandmothers, Elsia and Betty two women who were way ahead of the curve as far as current New York food trends go. Elsia (a.k.a. Mama Els) was the buttermilk-brined-fried-chicken expert, and Betty the pie-master, and both are the inspiration for chef Elizabeth Karmels menu. The chicken may be deep-fried and the service cafeteria-style, but Mama E. and Grandma B. would undoubtedly like the 100-seat bi-level space done up like a homey country kitchen in pale blues and yellows. Though what theyd make of the Texas hand roll fried chicken tenders, coleslaw, sesame seeds, crushed almonds, and hot-pepper jelly wrapped in a flour tortilla is anyones guess.

Hill Country Chicken, 1123 Broadway, at 25th St.; 212-257-6446