Sifton Enjoys Toloache; Cheshes Plays a Pizza Doubleheader


Toloache "looks terrible from the street," admits Sam Sifton. "But nothing on Broadway is ever what it seems ... [the restaurant] is worth a second look," especially for its selection of guacamoles and seviches. [NYT]
Related: Taco-Loving Chef Julian Medina Celebrates His Birthday With Tequila

At Totale Pizza, Jay Cheshes finds that "an OCD focus on getting the details right is on extreme display ... [the] purist specimens feature pliant, beautifully bubbled dough." Meanwhile, Paulie Gee's offers "some of New Yorks most unusual combinations ... mixed-media masterworks, gingerly layering disparate elements sweet, savory, bitter, pungent until the whole thing makes some sort of sense." [TONY]

Annisa "offers that rare New York luxury: fancy food in a fancy setting at reasonable prices," says Ryan Sutton. The restaurant serves "very good, often three-star food that belongs to the Jean-Georges school of almost-Asian." [Bloomberg]
Related: Anita Lo Buys Out Partner at Annisa

Gael Greene visits 10 Downing under its new chef, where she enjoys the food particularly the fried chicken, "crusty and bursting with flavor from its buttermilk bath" but "prices strike me as aggressive for this uncertain moment." [Insatiable Critic]

At Yee Kee H.K. Style in Brooklyn, Robert Sietsema finds a "particularly remarkable" dish, the "irresistibly named Farmer Special ... Like a haystack, the platter was piled with toothpicks of fried taro, shredded garlic chives, slender Chinese celery, and assorted mushrooms, surmounted by a handful of fried lo mein." At East Ocean Palace in Forest Hills, there's "excellent dim sum." [VV]