The Other Critics

Unterman Trips Back In Time at Thermidor; Bauer Downgrades Flora

Photo: Brian Smeets

Patti U. files the first “major” review of Thermidor, the new midcentury-inspired eatery from the Spork team of Neil Jorgenson and chef Bruce Binn. She’s “compelled” to have a martini in the sleek, retro setting, and she sounds pretty thrilled with the starter bites and the updated namesake dish, lobster Thermidor: “it comes in the shell, meat conveniently extracted and returned, slathered with bechamel, and finished under the broiler. The result is an opulent lobster gratin with a golden crust.” Also, she says that Binn “improves upon one of my all-time favorites, chicken Kiev, by stuffing it with hot red pepper butter.” Agreed. [Examiner]

Mr. Bauer, meanwhile, revisits Oakland’s Flora, a restaurant he was once charmed by to the tune of three stars in 2008. He says that “much of [new chef Chris Dettmer’s] food is delicious,” but he seems a little underwhelmed. He’s particularly disturbed by the chicken dish that is poached sous vide before roasting. “Sous vide cooking can result in dishes that aren’t what most diners expect. In this case, the chicken had a jiggly texture and was blood-red in the center, and while it might have been perfectly safe to eat, we just nibbled around the edges. [Chron]

Unterman Trips Back In Time at Thermidor; Bauer Downgrades Flora