Sifton Dismisses Kenmare; Aquavit Fails to Impress

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"Kenmare is not a restaurant for tasting menus and hushed reverence for any kind of cuisine. It isnt even really for dinner," says Sam Sifton in a zero-star review highlighting oversalted food. [NYT]
Related: Kenmare Will Do 'the Chicken' Tonight

"Under Aquavits new chef, Marcus Jernmark, the food falls well short of the standards [previous chef Marcus Samuelsson] set," Jay Cheshes notes. [TONY]
Earlier: Aquavit Names Marcus Jernmark Executive Chef

The "funky, posh, and oddly friendly" Crosby Bar is cursed with "middling food," says Shauna Lyon. "The laid-back afternoon tea service, it turns out, is the way to go." [NYer]

Plein Sud is "shockingly smiley-faced, welcoming," says Gael Greene. The restaurant wants "to be a hangout for the neighborhood, affordable, accessible, all that current bistro jazz." [Insatiable Critic]
Related: A Look Inside Frederick Lesorts Latest, the AvroKo-Designed Plein Sud

Woodside's Katmandu Spice "may be the only Brazilian-Nepalese restaurant in the world," says Robert Sietsema, and they serve "brilliant Bahian signature bobo de camarao." [VV]

Breakfast at Maialino is "insanely, ridiculously good," raves Ed Levine. "What I might call mindboggingly delicious." [Serious Eats NY]
Related: What to Eat at Maialino