the other critics

Sifton, Sutton Dine With the Olds at Má Pêche; Cheshes Dislikes Fornino Park Slope

Má Pêche is "the first Momofuku restaurant truly suitable for dining with those the Internet calls the olds," says Sam Sifton. "The food is not quite as precise and magical as it often is in the downtown restaurants, but it is recognizably Changish and strong." [NYT]
Related: Má Pêche's Menu, Illustrated

Má Pêche "ranks among New York’s best steakhouses," raves Ryan Sutton. "Think of it as an easier-to-get-into Minetta Tavern, minus the glamour." [Bloomberg]

The Lion is "a real restaurant with decent food," where "entrees use fine raw materials, but you’ll pay," says Steve Cuozzo. [NYP]
Related: What to Eat at the Lion

"The grilled pizzas at the new Fornino Park Slope — slim and crisp as crackers — aren’t likely to win many converts," declares Jay Cheshes. But elsewhere on the menu, the chef's "creative impulses too often miss the mark." [TONY]
Related: At Fornino Park Slope, Michael Ayoub to Abandon Pizza Oven in Favor of Grill

Chef Didier Elena's revamped menu at Adour Alain Ducasse "is so appealing, so absolutely convincing, that if Adour doesn't thrive under him it might be that classic French food is doomed," says Alan Richman. [Forked & Corked/GQ]
Related: Finally Confirmed: Didier Elena Is New Chef at Adour Alain Ducasse

Annisa is "so civilized. So grownup," says Gael Greene, who falls for the kitchen's "advanced palette of Asian and African flavors." [Insatiable Critic]
Related: First Look at Anita Lo’s Annisa

You'll find "a menu that abounds with oddities" at the Kyotoan restaurant Momokawa, reports Robert Sietsema, including raw, phosphorescent firefly squid and "the perfect evocation" of the rice soup ochazuke. [VV]

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