Sifton Boards Torrisi Love Train; Cuozzo, Cheshes Split on Má Pêche

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Torrisi Italian Specialties "is not fine dining, but it sure is fine," says Sam Sifton. The dining room is a place "in which artists make work and customers consume it," serving "edible paintings, comestible short stories." [NYT]
Related: What to Eat for Dinner at Torrisi Italian Specialties

"Despite [Má Pêche's] swank midtown setting in the Chambers Hotel, the subterranean venue ... has virtually no personality," says Jay Cheshes. "The dishes are often pleasant but rarely exciting, neither as challenging nor as groundbreaking as so much of the food served at Chang’s other restaurants." [TONY]
Related: Má Pêche’s Menu, Illustrated

Má Pêche is "a definite comedown for the city’s most insufferably hyped, over-awarded, self-dramatizing young chef," scolds Steve Cuozzo. It's "a more than welcome, accessibly exotic addition to the Midtown eating scene, with quirks that make it lovable and dislikable by turns." [NYP]

"Not one cut of cow merited a return visit" at Wolfgang's Steakhouse, writes Ryan Sutton. The strip steak "tastes like one of those vegetable proteins vegans consume when they want to pretend they’re eating meat." [Bloomberg]

The fried chicken at Pies-N-Thighs comes "with a batter both perfectly crisped and richly succulent; the chicken inside is brined, tender, and cooked not a moment too long," Leo Carey writes.
Earlier: Little Skillet, Pies ‘n’ Thighs Among Bon Appétit’s Best Fried Chicken

Gael Greene is at Navy Beach in Montauk, where the clams are "amazing" and the fish and chips is "two filets of cod and more splendid shrimp and scallops than you’d expect for $20 in a delicious bubble wrap of slightly sweet and greasy beer batter." [Insatiable Critic]

Famous Sichuan is a restaurant that "needs and deserves serious eaters' patronage," says Ed Levine, with "first rate" Sichuan food. [Serious Eats NY]

Coney Island Taste in Sheepshead Bay is "a very serious Peruvian restaurant," writes Robert Sietsema. "You don't really need apps ... since the entrées are so voluminous." [VV]