Sifton, Cheshes Fall For Annisa; Richman Visits ‘Mediocre’ Print

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"Annisa is very good. It is not perfect," writes Sam Sifton. It "remains a destination for grown-up and serious restaurant-goers, both for its cooking and the experience of eating it." [NYT]
Related: First Look at Anita Lo's Annisa

Annisa "isnt any flashier than it used to be, but the food is more exciting than ever," asserts Jay Cheshes. "Lo takes a singular stand for old-fashioned refinement." [TONY]

"I don't believe I've ever seen a restaurant so determined to pursue mediocrity," Alan Richman says of Print. "The menus are badly in need of coherence, to say nothing of editing." [Forked & Corked/GQ]
Related: At Print, Dinner is Served

"The American menu gets the job done" at the Central Park Boathouse, notes Steve Cuozzo in his roundup of city park dining. At New Leaf Caf, "entrees can be over-busy." [NYP]

"A lobster risotto was disconcertingly green and its flavors muddled; red snapper was a little overcooked, and the only contribution made by an underlying layer of artichokes was a jarring note of bitterness," Andrea Thompson says of Faustina. [NYer]
Related: Faustina's Menu, Illustrated

"With its off-price cocktails, familiar interior, and cheap and sometimes excellent bar food, it's almost impossible not to adore The Commodore," raves Robert Sietsema. [VV]
Related: Stephen Tanner Gets Back in the Fried Chicken Business

"Canteen 82 is a great neighborhood place for my dumpling fix," notes Ed Levine. The soup dumplings are "better, way better, than the ones at Joe's Shanghai." [Serious Eats NY]

"It seems the subterranean feeding concept" at the Plaza Food Hall "is a winner," says Gael Greene. After a first visit reminiscent of "bad airport food," "either weve stumbled on the better choices or the team is getting its act together." [Insatiable Critic]

Kenmare is "a fair, forgettable restaurant, another mess hall-cum-social club," according to Ryan Sutton. The Little Owl "feels more welcoming then Kenmare even though its smaller and harder to get into." [Bloomberg]
Related: Kenmare Will Do the Chicken Tonight