Lobster Goes Lowbrow; New York’s Own Theme Restaurants

Photo: Hannah Whitaker/New York Magazine

The magazine celebrates summer this week with a look at the lobster roll. Benjamin Wallace tracks “a curious phenomenon reshaping New York City’s relationship with lobsters: Distant, seemingly unrelated events — environmental, financial, and behavioral — are recasting the highbrow shellfish of yore into inexpensive street food.” (There’s also a slideshow of lobster rolls that epitomize the high-low ethos.) Adam Sternbergh reminds us that even though ESPN Zone is closed, New York has its own version of theme restaurants: “Like all of McNally’s super-successful restaurants — from Pastis to Balthazar to Schiller’s to Morandi — [Pulino’s] offers a cozy, charming, carefully curated experience-in-a-box.”

It’s prime season for rooftop bars, and we’ve rounded up the best options, both glitzy newcomers and revamped old classics. If you’d prefer to make the drinks yourself, bartenders from places like Kenmare and Anfora share their recipes for supersize cocktails designed for groups. And why not spend Independence Day at an oyster roast out in Greenport, with bivalves from the supplier to Le Bernardin?