The nook next to the entrance of the West 4th Street subway station that once housed a newsstand and then became Kudo Beans has been taken over by a longtime manager at Istanbul’s Namli Kebab. The neighborhood wasn’t exactly starving for another gyro spot, but we’re assured this one uses “the highest-quality meat” (the café bills itself as “fine Turkish cuisine”), so at least you know the cone isn’t straight off the shelf of Restaurant Depot.
We’re also told that desserts such as baklava are homemade (the chefs are both veterans of Istanbul restaurants, with some cruise-ship experience to boot). But the real lure here is a back garden that, along with the café itself, is open from 10 a.m. till 2 a.m. on weekdays and till 4 a.m. on weekends. It may well be the most dignified place to wolf down that don’t-want-to-wake-up-feeling-awful falafel. You can check out the menu, and order delivery, at SeamlessWeb.
Ottomans Café, 326 Sixth Ave., nr. West 4th St.; 917-472-7869