Williamsburg newcomer Osteria il Paiolo, which opened last Saturday, promises to "mimic the standards of the best of Manhattan." That would be the particular "best of Manhattan" category occupied by places like Da Silvano, the paparazzi-friendly restaurant that Osteria owner Alex Palumbo managed for the past five years. Now Palumbo brings his glad-handing expertise to the other side of the river, along with a menu that won't be unfamiliar to Da Silvano habitués: look for pan-Italian comfort foods like housemade sausage with savoy cabbage, or gnocchi with lobster.
The kitchen is run by chef Andrea Milazzo, but we suspect his offerings will take a back seat to the table-hopping and air-kisses that Palumbo will initiate in the front of the house. The copper accents in the brick-walled dining room are a nod to the restaurant's name — a paiolo is a copper cooking vessel. The restaurant is open daily from 5 p.m. until midnight, with brunch service starting at 11 a.m. on weekends.
Osteria il Paiolo, 106 N. 6th St., nr. Berry St.; Williamsburg; 718-218-7080