the other critics

Sifton Falls for Prime Meats; Cheshes Hops in the Zengo Time Machine

Sam Sifton visits "the very good and very beautiful" Prime Meats, where the menu "is executed with a rare degree of excellence ... It is an extremely pleasant place." [NYT]

Zengo "serves a fusion menu (a dated brand of Asian-Mex) in a city where it’s way out of style," says Jay Cheshes. "Even if the food were more inspired, the [midtown] location’s all wrong for such a clubby, high-concept restaurant." [TONY]

"You won't find a bigger or more satisfying heap of grease, salt, protein, and starch anywhere in Boerum Hill" than the poutine at Mile End, says Robert Sietsema. "In an earlier era, it might have been another Katz's." [VV]
Earlier: First Look at Mile End

"Dinner at Torrisi Italian Specialties is a culinary and gustatory tour de force," says Ed Levine. "No pretense, no attitude, just two courageous and enormously talented cooks, who stand behind a kind of American cuisine that's distinctly their own." [SE]
Related: Underground Gourmet: Better Than Grandma

"Inconsistency plagues the menu" at Quattro Gastronomia Italiana, says Steve Cuozzo. But "offsetting the chronic ups and downs are a wine list loaded with excellent bottles ... desserts that ring the bell every time ... and an attitude-free staff almost too nice." [NYP]

K! Pizzacone "covers uncharted ground between a tri-corner slice and a Hot Pocket — rolled, but not sealed," says Mike Peed. "Every bite tastes like run-of-the-mill pizza." [NYer]

Gael Greene finds "mostly delicious Italianish food for New Yorkers" at Lugo Caffé. It's "excessive, occasionally a bit over-the-top." [Insatiable Critic]

"There are many good pizzerias in New York. Pulino’s is not one of them," says Ryan Sutton. "This isn’t reservations food. This is snack food." [Bloomberg]
Related: Adam Platt: Pizza à la McNally

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