In the magazine this week, Adam Platt is underwhelmed by Pulino’s. The pizza at the “jangly, overheated little restaurant” leaves him cold; he wonders if chef Nate Appleman is out of his element: “Serving carefully wrought escarole salads to sun-splashed foodies in San Francisco is not the same as feeding a roiling piranha tank of New York scenesters pretty much around the clock.”
One of the many reasons in this week’s cover story compelling LeBron James to join the Knicks is that the Carnegie Deli promises to name a sandwich after him. Heck, it’s already on the menu: The LeBron MVP is pastrami, corned beef, brisket, and turkey piled high on rye. Pat LaFrieda may have left New York for bigger workspace, but his former warehouse on Greenwich Street is an art gallery. The opening exhibition centers on tofu, of course.
In openings, Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld have the lowdown on Brooklyn Italian joint River Deli, and the borough gets a new coffee roastery in the form of Stone Street Roasters, run by a former Lavazza director. The Humm Dog, late of PDT, has a new home on the menu at Eleven Madison Park, where it’s tinier and more expensive. The Manhattan Cocktail Classic kicks off this week, and at the Greenmarket, keep an eye out for field-grown rhubarb.