Diablo Royale Este isn’t the only new taqueria in town — recently, Smith Street’s Oaxaca (owned by onetime Harvest and Lobo proprietor David Schneider) quietly opened a second location on Fourth Avenue near upwardly mobile Gowanus. A manager describes this modest enterprise (just fourteen seats in back and four at a bar) as a sort of stationary taco truck, with tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas, and tortas served till the meat runs out (currently till about 11 p.m. on weekdays and 2 a.m. on weekends). Said meat (“the best we can get without killing our bank account”) is delivered twice daily from a commissary, and bread arrives from a bakery in Sunset Park. The menu is the same as Oaxaca’s and, blessedly, so is the BYOB policy.
Oaxaca Taqueria, 250 Fourth Ave., nr. Carroll St.; 718-222-1122