Kenmare’s Critical Mass


“Soon after we sat down, the greeter ushered in Jay Cheshes of Time Out and, later, Sam Sifton of the Times. The service had been exceedingly slow, but it improved markedly once Sifton — dressed like an undertaker in a somber charcoal-gray suit with skinny lapels — was seated. For the next hour or so, critics and their cohorts were nearly the only diners in the room.” —Robert Sietsema does some colleague-spotting at Kenmare, which might not always be as crowded as it claims to be. [VV]