As we’ve mentioned, Anthony Bourdain, in his new book Medium Raw, accuses Esquire restaurant writer John Mariani of being a “one-man schnorrer” and “motherfucker” who pushes his likes and dislikes (“shower cap in his comped hotel, attractive waitresses, car service”) on the restaurants he visits. Without responding to those accusations (he’s done that in the past, after all) or even bothering to mention that he was called out in the book (though he does wonder, “don't publishers pass authors’ trash by libel lawyers anymore?”), Mariani now issues his none-too-objective take on the “increasingly troubled, cobra-heart-eating, self-loathing” Bourdain.
Deploying hyperbole worthy of Tony himself, Mariani accuses Bourdain of using “reptilian venom” and “scatological phlegm” as well as “the words ‘douche bag,’ ‘asshole,’ and ‘fuck,’ which you expect from illiterate, ever-anonymous food bloggers but not from the once-stylish Bourdain.” Mariani’s conclusion: “he has spiraled down to the level of the foul-mouthed bloggers who idolize him.” Way to jab at Bourdain and the blogosphere, though if you’re going to call folks illiterate you might want to check the spelling of Abby [sic] Hoffman. Anyway, if you thought this latest attack on Mariani was going to get him in hot water with his editors (who have defended him in the past) — think again!
The Sad Story of Anthony Bourdain [Eat Like a Man/Esquire]