The Other Critics

Bauer Adores CAV; Kauffman Respects Ruchi; Ness Cries Over the Crab and Grits at Hibiscus

Michael Bauer pays a return visit to CAV Wine Bar, where French Laundry alum John Maher just took over the kitchen last fall. He writes that Maher is “creating food that’s a bargain for the quality,” raving about the crispy pig trotters and the black cod, and saying the lamb “looks as if it came out of the French Laundry kitchen.” He gives the place two and a half stars, with three for the food. [Chron]

Kauffman says he keeps returning to southern Indian restaurant Ruchi, which Grub Street previously noted had replaced Naan ‘n’ Chutney at 474 Third Street. Though he seems excited about the place, he complains about various dishes, reserving his only high praise for the Nellore fish curry. All in all he says, “Save Dosa for the celebrations; come to Ruchi for lunch.” [SF Weekly]

Writing the Chron this week, Carol Ness can’t get enough of Sarah Kirnon’s Caribbean-Creole food at Oakland’s Hibiscus (1745 San Pablo). “It’s fine dining that’s fun,” she says, and the Dungeness crab and grits, “could make you weep.” [Chron]

And finally, Reidinger hits up Little Chihuahua on Divisidero (soon expanding to 24th & Castro), where he rambles about a dog in the doorway, enjoys the shrimp quesadilla, and complains that the only thing the place “seems to lack is the presence of actual Mexicans.” [SFBG]

Bauer Adores CAV; Kauffman Respects Ruchi; Ness Cries Over the Crab and Grits at