The Other Critics

Two Bells for Sampan; Miso Soup “Like Dirty Sweat Socks”

• LaBan thinks long and hard about Sampan chef Michael Schulson, wondering if “this 36-year-old talent defined a distinct identity, or is he simply a polished stylist retooling existing trends? If I vote for the latter, it’s not necessarily a major knock. Few cooks have helped evolve and refine fusion cuisine with as much skill and mass appeal as Schulson.” [Inquirer]

• Rick Nichols checks in with Noble’s new chef and its rooftop garden and likes what he sees. [Inquirer]

• Phyllis pays a visit to Fat Salmon, and describes her disdain for miso soup, any miso soup, thusly: “To me, miso soup smells and tastes like dirty sweat socks. But it is my responsibility to sample it. The soup had tiny cubes of tofu and some greens floating in the broth. Alexander liked it. For me, it still smelled and tasted like dirty sweat socks.” [South Philly Review]

Two Bells for Sampan; Miso Soup “Like Dirty Sweat Socks”