When Adam Melonas called off plans for a New York restaurant, we went back to waiting for José Andrés to open a place here. But when will the spunky Spaniard finally dock? Doesn’t he want an excuse to get wasted with David Chang more often? Today he tells Feast “it will happen before I’m 45” (he’s currently 40): “I’m working on an American concept restaurant for anywhere that we find the right place.” Wait a minute — an “American concept”? Hey, we’ll take what we can get from this versatile chef, but during this time of “American concepts,” are deconstructed cheeseburgers what we really need from the country’s leading proponent of Spanish avant-garde cuisine?